Both bodices are comfortably fitted. The French slopes to center front and back points and has a diagonal neckline; the English has gracefully rounded bottom edges and a horizontal neckline. Both lace in front and are reversible to add wardrobe flexibility.

The chemise (in two lengths) and pettislip are basic undergarments. The chemise has a neckline drawstring to ensure body conformity; three-quarter length sleeves have drawstrings to create soft ruffled cuffs. The pettislip ties at the waist and has soft gathers for easy movement.

Our basic pattern is a waist-length fitted jacket with cuffs and a waistband. Instructions are given for making nine major variations - both Union and Confederate - with body style and decorative changes. A pattern insert discusses historical differences.

Our double-breasted coate' is short-waisted to show the waistcoat underneath. Cut-away tails are pleated and vented in back. Contrasting fabric is optional for collar and lapels, cuffs, and packet flaps. The frock coate' is worn with our drop-front breeches (or trousers after 1805).

Five basic shirt styles in one pattern! All have a dropped shoulder line with full sleeves, underarm gussets, and buttoned cuffs. Four styles, with front openings to mid-chest, offer three collar choices, plain or pleated front panels, and ruffles. The fifth style (Rifle shirt) is a wrap around with fringe down the front opening.

The single-breasted frock coat fits the body snugly; fitted sleeves, adorned with buttons, taper to the wrist. The skirt wraps from open front panels to a fashionable split back with decorative inserts. A contrasting lapel is optional.  

The front fall and pocket flaps button to the contoured waistband in front. The waistband has lacing and a gusset in back to ensure a comfortable fit; soft back pleats give seat fullness and easy movement. Breeches have button leg plaquets and fitted bands just below the knee.

The waistcoat features a rounded neckline and it buttons to just below the waist. The front pockets have decorative three-point flaps over the welted openings. The waistcoat's back panels are 4" shorter then the front panels and are vented center back for ease of movement. This pattern complements our drop-front breeches.

Our single-breasted, five-button western vest is highlighted by a shawl collar to mid-chest. The body is tapered with front darts. Welting gives the two front pockets and left breast pocket a finished look. A back belt with buckle to adjust fit and provide a decorative touch is optional.

The fitted bodice of the ladies' riding habit has front and back V's at the waist that create an elegant look. Skirt fullness is achieved by pleats at the hips and graceful falls over the back. The rounded collar, three lobed pocket flaps, and large buttoned cuffs are of contrasting material. This pattern is versatile - with a gathered skirt it is correct to 1820; with a six-gored skirt, to 1870.

A later style, differing from the "Five Shirt" in that it has a narrower collar and a tapered set-in sleeve.

The dress styles, the robe à l' Anglaíse and the short gown or compére. The pattern instructions are for a lined bodice, to allow for the wearing with or without the chemise. Included patterns for Farthingales and Engageantes.

These trousers are historically accurate, for 'roomy' fit, and will require braces or suspenders. An optional waistband is included for those that may want a more tailored appearance.

A simple cotton dress, with either a "Fitted" or "O" Type bodice. It has off the shoulder full sleeves, and a choice of either a pleated or "gauged" skirt. In two separate envelopes, bust sizes 26" - 36" and sizes 38" - 49"

With the disappearance of the "petticoat breeches" and the "Spanish Breeches", along with the shorter waistcoats and coats about 1690, the "French Fly" came into popularity.